If I told you that I had a catchy jingle called "staaanding staaanding staaanding intending to turn" in my head -- could you guess where we have been for the past 4 days? If you're thinking a Buddhist monk led meditation retreat, you would be on the right path (but not necessarily the 8-fold path). The overnight retreat was recommended to us, but being the "jumping in head first" people that we are, we chose to commit to the 3 night option. Needless to say, we didn't know what we were getting into -- I honestly didn't think you could meditate for 12 hours a day, nor did Jess think that taking a vow of silence meant that we couldn't talk. As you may imagine, the group of people who find themselves in Chiang Mai, Thailand and THEN choose to go on a 4 day retreat are a rather eclectic crowd. Jess and I are professional speculators, but with a vow of silence in the way, we were left to ponder our new theories alone. We both agreed, however, that a stand out moment was when Michael, the overweight, middle-aged German man's white pants (we had to wear all white) fell to the FLOOR ever so slowly as he tried to clear his plate from dinner. Clearly the passive Buddhist thing to do was to stare at the table, breathe in deeeeply, exhale slooowwly, and try not to laugh.
I am now realizing that most of what I would say in this post would only be funny to Jess and myself so 1) please accept that if it doesn't make sense to you, it does to us 2) I will give a little rundown of what we did: A gong woke us up at 5 am, we started chanting at 5 30 am, ended chanting at 9 pm and went to bed shortly there after. The day was filled with meditation, no surprise there, which varied from sitting, walking, and lying down meditation. Whenever we were left to choose our own type of meditation, I consistenly chose to lie down in the back of the room and maybe take a nap. The meditating was punctuated by mini lectures by our leaders, meals, and yoga which was taught by our very own Jessica (the * in the title is used to denote that Jess had to break her silence in order to teach the yoga class --we'll let it slide). A priceless scene was having all of us on one side of the hall in warrior one and then seeing the monks waaay on the other side following along in their orange robes -- one of Jess' talents is adjusting your body while in a pose, but the monks were not privy to this due to the potential enjoyment that would result from a woman's touch and thus lead them away from the path of righteousness, too bad as Prat #2's shoulders were up all near his ears. Due to the said vow of silence, the lectures we received from the monks were a bit one-sided. When Prat # 1 was talking about the difference between being a proper Buddhist and being one just out of tradition, the combination of lacking confidence in his English and a non-responsive audience led him to tell a "joke" about joss sticks, praying for health, and lung cancer due to too many lit joss sticks. I could continue, but I have an inclination that our experience is not translating to this medium so well. Suffice it to say that the past few days gave us ample thinking space to reflect on what an incredible experience we have had in southeast Asia. The temples, the food, the weather, the landscape, and most importantly the people have made this all an unforgettable experience. We now have a few days to make it down south to Bangkok, which is just enough time to eat some more delicious Thai food, see some old temples, and prepare for our next (sub)continent -- INDIA!
Friday, May 29, 2009
Sunday, May 24, 2009
Thanks dad
Whew. What a great 20 days. They were certainly eventful -- trekking, elephants, waterfalls, kayaks, falling out of kayaks, sprinting through rainstorms, tuk tuk rides (or, as my father called them, death tuk rides ...), all kinds of boxing events, and a TON of wats. Since there is so much to tell, and only so much internet time, I will describe for you loyal readers a singular episode that shows off some of the brains and brawn of my father, since he was so great to come and hang with Laura and me.
We were in Laos, in the capital city of Vientianne for 5 nights and after exploring the city decided to get out into nature a bit (apparently, Laura and I are into that now) and take a kayaking trip on the river. After shopping around for a bit, we settled with a full day trip sold to us by a woman who we deemed simply "the crazy lady." If any of you are in Vientianne in the future, I am sure you will be able to recognize the hyper woman who could NOT stop smiling or talking a billion unintelligible words per minute or bursting into infectious fits of laughter. I loved her. Whatever she was on, I wanted some. She sold us a trip in kayaks down the Nam Lik river, complete with lunch at an "eco village" and transfer to and from the city both ways.
So, we received an early morning wake up call and found ourselves at the local bus station minutes later. We were all expecting some sort of bus or mini bus for our transfer to the river, so we were a bit surprised when we were piled into a sawngthaew, which is a pick up truck with two benches facing eachother in the bed of the truck. No big deal. We had plenty of room because the only other thing in the truck initially was bags and bags of spring onions. Based on previous experiences with public transportation, I expected the truck to fill up slowly, but neglected to inform my father -- who has the same long leg problem I have, but also the additional pain of not being able to sit up straight in the truck because he is too tall. 3 smelly hours later, we arrived at our destination. We had a bit of a problem locating the place we were supposed to pick up our kayaks from, but managed to figure it out. We received no guide or instructions. In fact, the only people to see is off were a group of dirty yet adorable children. The eldest waved down the river and told us to stop at the eco village. Then we realized we were only given two kayaks, each for two people, so someone was going to have to double up. Still tired from the early morning wakeup, I made a decision that would determine the rest of the afternoon. Laura would make me paddle with her, while I could simply cruise in the boat with my dad, so I gave Laura her own kayak and hopped in the front of my dads boat and we took off down river.
The beginning of the trip was pleasant and comfortable and beautiful. The jungles in Laos are stunning. Mountains and clouds and perfect light and thick foliage, complete with all kinds of jungley sounds that I can't identify but find beautiful none the less. The problems started when we neared a large rock with the word STOP written on it. Perched atop the rock were two boys, one of whom was holding a shotgun. They start gesturing us to pull over, so we follow command. We realize they are queuing kayaks over the large rapid nearby. Laura was ahead of my father and me, and watched a pair of two germans attempt the rapid unsuccessfully -- as in their kayak tipped over and they were forced to figure out a way to get back into their kayak while not drowning or getting eaten by whatever might or might not be lurking in the water. Laura is prodding me to note a key detail I had forgotten, the germans had sturdy helmets, and a guide. Two things the crazy lady did not sell us. After seeing the look of fear on Laura's face, the boy without the shotgun hops down from his perch and offers to ride the kayak through the rapids for Laura while she climbs down the rocks nearby. Laura, wise girl that she is because she graduated from high-school (hi Mr Fox!), decides to take our friend's advice and she climbs out. I assumed my dad and I would wait for the kid to get back to our kayak so he could do us the same favor, but no, my dad pushes off and starts paddling toward the rapid. I, who had limited control of the boat, shot a panicked look at Laura on shore and shouted "Laura!!! What is he doing???!!! We are going over the rapid!!! I don't want to!!!" there may have also been a few expletives thrown in there, but I'm not sure. Laura, no doubt, had the best view of the comedy that ensued ... I just asked her for details and she reports that my dad was yelling "keep paddling!!!" which was almost un-hearable above my bloodcurdling screams. Then she says, and I quote, " it was a quick 1 2 3 OVER. You guys had no chance in the world. Then you disappeared from sight, and I thought I was left for dead with your digital camera and the kid with the shotgun."
So, we tipped. My dad is yelling to keep hold of my paddle, which I manage to do. We get tossed through the rest of the rapid and once we get to calmer water we pull over just in time for me to watch the kid in Laura's kayak shred through the water like he is on the discovery channel and come to my rescue. I am trying to flip the boat back over, which I am sure looks to him like I am drowning. He flips it over in one fell swoop, and holds it down while I hoist and lunge and shimmy back into position. He pushes me off to pick up my dad who floated further downstream. In my traveling partner's oh so eloquent words, 1 2 3 and I flipped AGAIN, this time floating past my dad with the boat and forcing the kid to rescue me again. He probably thought I was really great.
Don't worry, we recover from this crisis. We find Laura, get everyone back in their boats, and continue down the river. But something has definitely shifted in the Caimi boat. The balance is really hard to keep, and of course I think it is my dad's fault and he thinks it is my fault. There is name calling and fault laying much to the bemusement of Flo. I become convinced that my dad is shifting around too much because I am forced to dramatically lean to one side out of the boat every few strokes just to keep us afloat. I get frusturated and let the boat tip over. My dad and I float near some rocks on the shore and Laura continues on. We right the boat, climb in, and immediately flip. We try a different entrance technique, and immediately flip. My dad asks me to hold onto a large boulder next to me, and when I reach out my hand I see 2 spiders the size of my hand in the exact place I was about to grab. We flip again. I lost it at this point, really fully lost it. I clambered on a rock nearby, still holding onto my paddle and announce that I want my dad to continue down the river without me. I will have my paddle for protection, and he can send a boat back for me. We have been marooned for about an hour at this point, and no sign of miss Fox, so my dad dismisses my plan saying he has no idea how long it will take him to get back to me. He forces me back into the boat, and again we flip. Neither he nor I can figure it out at first -- something must be wrong with the boat. I realize that it may be filled with water, so my dad drags the boat on shore and uses his brute strength to lift the kayak, and drain the water inside out of a hole near the tip. After draining it, I re-announce my intention to brave the Lao jungles with my paddle until he can send a proper boat back for me, but again he gets me back in, and thank the stars in the sky, we stay afloat with ease. My dad tells me to paddle hard. We haven't seen the Fox for over an hour and, have no clue how much further we have to paddle.
I kid you not, 75 yards down river, around a small bend, we see the darn eco village. The whole ordeal, we were 75 yards away!!!! We could have just swam to the finish. We find Laura ensconced in semi luxury with a chain smoking french man who has clearly spent a wee bit too much time in the jungle. She claims that after we didn't show up for awhile, she asked the french man to send a boat to get us, and he refused on the basis that 85% of people flip, and he couldn't be bothered. After hearing this fact, discussion turned to whether or not the crazy lady was trying to kill us or not. The french man and his family prepared us a yummy vegetarian meal, and then it was back to the big city for us. That night in the shower, I cannot even begin to describe the pond putresence that came off of me.
So, this is just one of many adventures that we experienced while trying to keep up with my dad.
We were in Laos, in the capital city of Vientianne for 5 nights and after exploring the city decided to get out into nature a bit (apparently, Laura and I are into that now) and take a kayaking trip on the river. After shopping around for a bit, we settled with a full day trip sold to us by a woman who we deemed simply "the crazy lady." If any of you are in Vientianne in the future, I am sure you will be able to recognize the hyper woman who could NOT stop smiling or talking a billion unintelligible words per minute or bursting into infectious fits of laughter. I loved her. Whatever she was on, I wanted some. She sold us a trip in kayaks down the Nam Lik river, complete with lunch at an "eco village" and transfer to and from the city both ways.
So, we received an early morning wake up call and found ourselves at the local bus station minutes later. We were all expecting some sort of bus or mini bus for our transfer to the river, so we were a bit surprised when we were piled into a sawngthaew, which is a pick up truck with two benches facing eachother in the bed of the truck. No big deal. We had plenty of room because the only other thing in the truck initially was bags and bags of spring onions. Based on previous experiences with public transportation, I expected the truck to fill up slowly, but neglected to inform my father -- who has the same long leg problem I have, but also the additional pain of not being able to sit up straight in the truck because he is too tall. 3 smelly hours later, we arrived at our destination. We had a bit of a problem locating the place we were supposed to pick up our kayaks from, but managed to figure it out. We received no guide or instructions. In fact, the only people to see is off were a group of dirty yet adorable children. The eldest waved down the river and told us to stop at the eco village. Then we realized we were only given two kayaks, each for two people, so someone was going to have to double up. Still tired from the early morning wakeup, I made a decision that would determine the rest of the afternoon. Laura would make me paddle with her, while I could simply cruise in the boat with my dad, so I gave Laura her own kayak and hopped in the front of my dads boat and we took off down river.
The beginning of the trip was pleasant and comfortable and beautiful. The jungles in Laos are stunning. Mountains and clouds and perfect light and thick foliage, complete with all kinds of jungley sounds that I can't identify but find beautiful none the less. The problems started when we neared a large rock with the word STOP written on it. Perched atop the rock were two boys, one of whom was holding a shotgun. They start gesturing us to pull over, so we follow command. We realize they are queuing kayaks over the large rapid nearby. Laura was ahead of my father and me, and watched a pair of two germans attempt the rapid unsuccessfully -- as in their kayak tipped over and they were forced to figure out a way to get back into their kayak while not drowning or getting eaten by whatever might or might not be lurking in the water. Laura is prodding me to note a key detail I had forgotten, the germans had sturdy helmets, and a guide. Two things the crazy lady did not sell us. After seeing the look of fear on Laura's face, the boy without the shotgun hops down from his perch and offers to ride the kayak through the rapids for Laura while she climbs down the rocks nearby. Laura, wise girl that she is because she graduated from high-school (hi Mr Fox!), decides to take our friend's advice and she climbs out. I assumed my dad and I would wait for the kid to get back to our kayak so he could do us the same favor, but no, my dad pushes off and starts paddling toward the rapid. I, who had limited control of the boat, shot a panicked look at Laura on shore and shouted "Laura!!! What is he doing???!!! We are going over the rapid!!! I don't want to!!!" there may have also been a few expletives thrown in there, but I'm not sure. Laura, no doubt, had the best view of the comedy that ensued ... I just asked her for details and she reports that my dad was yelling "keep paddling!!!" which was almost un-hearable above my bloodcurdling screams. Then she says, and I quote, " it was a quick 1 2 3 OVER. You guys had no chance in the world. Then you disappeared from sight, and I thought I was left for dead with your digital camera and the kid with the shotgun."
So, we tipped. My dad is yelling to keep hold of my paddle, which I manage to do. We get tossed through the rest of the rapid and once we get to calmer water we pull over just in time for me to watch the kid in Laura's kayak shred through the water like he is on the discovery channel and come to my rescue. I am trying to flip the boat back over, which I am sure looks to him like I am drowning. He flips it over in one fell swoop, and holds it down while I hoist and lunge and shimmy back into position. He pushes me off to pick up my dad who floated further downstream. In my traveling partner's oh so eloquent words, 1 2 3 and I flipped AGAIN, this time floating past my dad with the boat and forcing the kid to rescue me again. He probably thought I was really great.
Don't worry, we recover from this crisis. We find Laura, get everyone back in their boats, and continue down the river. But something has definitely shifted in the Caimi boat. The balance is really hard to keep, and of course I think it is my dad's fault and he thinks it is my fault. There is name calling and fault laying much to the bemusement of Flo. I become convinced that my dad is shifting around too much because I am forced to dramatically lean to one side out of the boat every few strokes just to keep us afloat. I get frusturated and let the boat tip over. My dad and I float near some rocks on the shore and Laura continues on. We right the boat, climb in, and immediately flip. We try a different entrance technique, and immediately flip. My dad asks me to hold onto a large boulder next to me, and when I reach out my hand I see 2 spiders the size of my hand in the exact place I was about to grab. We flip again. I lost it at this point, really fully lost it. I clambered on a rock nearby, still holding onto my paddle and announce that I want my dad to continue down the river without me. I will have my paddle for protection, and he can send a boat back for me. We have been marooned for about an hour at this point, and no sign of miss Fox, so my dad dismisses my plan saying he has no idea how long it will take him to get back to me. He forces me back into the boat, and again we flip. Neither he nor I can figure it out at first -- something must be wrong with the boat. I realize that it may be filled with water, so my dad drags the boat on shore and uses his brute strength to lift the kayak, and drain the water inside out of a hole near the tip. After draining it, I re-announce my intention to brave the Lao jungles with my paddle until he can send a proper boat back for me, but again he gets me back in, and thank the stars in the sky, we stay afloat with ease. My dad tells me to paddle hard. We haven't seen the Fox for over an hour and, have no clue how much further we have to paddle.
I kid you not, 75 yards down river, around a small bend, we see the darn eco village. The whole ordeal, we were 75 yards away!!!! We could have just swam to the finish. We find Laura ensconced in semi luxury with a chain smoking french man who has clearly spent a wee bit too much time in the jungle. She claims that after we didn't show up for awhile, she asked the french man to send a boat to get us, and he refused on the basis that 85% of people flip, and he couldn't be bothered. After hearing this fact, discussion turned to whether or not the crazy lady was trying to kill us or not. The french man and his family prepared us a yummy vegetarian meal, and then it was back to the big city for us. That night in the shower, I cannot even begin to describe the pond putresence that came off of me.
So, this is just one of many adventures that we experienced while trying to keep up with my dad.
Love to everyone at home. For those who don't already know, we fly to India June 2nd!
Disclaimer: Jess, being more of a 'big picture' kind of lady, asked me to proof-read her entry. With my duty of correcting her spelling and grammatical errors fulfilled, I find it necessary to add that 1) I did attempt to paddle back and be of any assistance after waiting a solid half hour for the Caimis to mount their boat again. Alas, the current was a bit strong so my efforts were in vain and only resulted in some passing fishermen judging the girl paddling upstream with no progress.
2) when Jess says she 'lost it' in the water, I think knowing that she threw up while staying afloat with her paddle under her knees 'girl scout white water rafting education style' is an important detail.
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Saturday, May 23, 2009
Fw: Jess having a good day
Here is my favorite traveler in her signature temple viewing outfit - after a severe toe stubbing yesterday, the white sneakers are a nice addition to the sarong-as-skirt-to-be-modest-for-the-monks look. Yes, we have entered the age of live blogging.
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Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Evidence that we have neither face tattoos nor are pregnant!
Through great pain and effort I bring you some photos! Shocking as it may sound, internet speed is not top notch in Laos. In no way are these a full and complete view of our 2 months (!) in Southeast Asia, but it will have to do for now.
Women in their mobile markets in the Mekong Delta in Viet Nam
Bob Fox getting fitted for some shirts and providing entertainment to the coy shop girls in Hoi An
Water Buffalo and I have a special connection -- I am convinced -- look at that eye contact!
Our trusty steed and escorts for the border crossing from Viet Nam into Cambodia
Share taxi in Cambodia was two dollars less than the van...want to take a guess as to how many people are pictured above? Or even better, how many people are in the car at this moment? Whatever you think, double it. 7 and 9 respectively, cozy!
One of the temples at Angkor, no big deal.
The bridge and entry gate at the front of the capital city of the Khmer Kingdom. This is a line of gods holding a Naga (dragon) -- it is part of a larger myth called the Stirring of the Milk which included a naga, gods, demons, Shiva, and eternal youth -- the elements of any good story.
The temple of Ta Prohm -- it has been taken over by some rather big roots that have caused the stones to collapse or nearly collapse. Familiar? Tomb Raider was filmed here, and yes our guide thought that Jess was Angelina Jolie.
Nuns and Angkor Wat -- just another day in the life.
At the Buddha Park outside of Vientiane in the pouring rain. A crazy (in a good way) monk built a park filled with statues of Buddha and Hindu gods -- kind of felt like a Lao version of Coney Island.
Oldest temple in Laos -- beautiful Japanese mosaics in Luang Prabang.
Me on the neck of an elephant. Not so comfortable, not so secure.
Chanting monks
bathing the elephants aka being sprayed with the water from their trunks -- incredible although not the cleanest bath I've ever taken.
Today we are leaving Luang Prabang and Laos for Chiang Mai, Thailand. Laos has been great -- the people are wonderful, the country is beautiful, and the sense of community and religion is strong. It will be missed, but as always we are excited for our next destination!
Women in their mobile markets in the Mekong Delta in Viet Nam
Bob Fox getting fitted for some shirts and providing entertainment to the coy shop girls in Hoi An
Water Buffalo and I have a special connection -- I am convinced -- look at that eye contact!
Our trusty steed and escorts for the border crossing from Viet Nam into Cambodia
Share taxi in Cambodia was two dollars less than the van...want to take a guess as to how many people are pictured above? Or even better, how many people are in the car at this moment? Whatever you think, double it. 7 and 9 respectively, cozy!
One of the temples at Angkor, no big deal. 
The bridge and entry gate at the front of the capital city of the Khmer Kingdom. This is a line of gods holding a Naga (dragon) -- it is part of a larger myth called the Stirring of the Milk which included a naga, gods, demons, Shiva, and eternal youth -- the elements of any good story.
The temple of Ta Prohm -- it has been taken over by some rather big roots that have caused the stones to collapse or nearly collapse. Familiar? Tomb Raider was filmed here, and yes our guide thought that Jess was Angelina Jolie.
Nuns and Angkor Wat -- just another day in the life.
At the Buddha Park outside of Vientiane in the pouring rain. A crazy (in a good way) monk built a park filled with statues of Buddha and Hindu gods -- kind of felt like a Lao version of Coney Island.
Oldest temple in Laos -- beautiful Japanese mosaics in Luang Prabang.
Me on the neck of an elephant. Not so comfortable, not so secure.
Chanting monks
bathing the elephants aka being sprayed with the water from their trunks -- incredible although not the cleanest bath I've ever taken.Today we are leaving Luang Prabang and Laos for Chiang Mai, Thailand. Laos has been great -- the people are wonderful, the country is beautiful, and the sense of community and religion is strong. It will be missed, but as always we are excited for our next destination!
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
part two: homeward bound and pictures
hihi,
the dang picture uploader is not working, surprise surprise! so here are some links to some albums i made on the facebook that should work for everyone, even if we are not friends on, or you do now have, facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2023975&id=33500228&l=97753fee0c
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2024109&id=33500228&l=65553428d4
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2024110&id=33500228&l=50c9f327ee
i think there should be descriptions of the albums and also of the pictures. there should be three albums there, and a total of about 150 pics. someone please email me if they don't work and i'll see what i can do. in other news, i leave for spain tomorrow. in other OTHER news, i have a ticket back to the us. i fly from london to nyc on june 4th, 2009. WOW. it feels weird and crazy and odd and good and bad. so the end is in sight, but the adventure is not over. and won't be over, even when i hit terra firma in north america. a different adventure, one that hopefully involves the deep south and far west texas. as for now, i have three weeks to spend in europe. i hope to spend time in barcelona, madrid, paris, berlin, and london. anyone have any leads in those places? i am excited to run around europe for the next few weeks and am also excited to be heading back to the states. tomorrow marks the 7th month of our travels and they have been good good good to me. i hope you all like the pictures, and grandmas, please excuse any inappropriate comments in the albums should there be any. i'm off to pack the backpack!
ciao, israel!!
katy jane
3 blogs in ONE by: lofo, jca, and datty caimi
This is an ambitious attempt on our parts, three blogs in one. We are in Vientiane, the very laid back capital of Laos, and have had a fulfilling week! First, we would like to wish the respective parties a Happy Mother's Day. We unabashedly love our mothers and sing the praises of the women (and sometimes men) who act as motherly figures and thus enrich our lives. Not only do these people make our lives a more enjoyable journey, but also show us the compassion, thoughtfulness, and generosity of which humankind is capable. So, from Edith in Florianopolis to Sue our momma in Cairns and everyone looking out for us in between, thank you for making the world a better place!
This sappy introduction makes for an okay segue into a topic that has been coming up more and more in conversation since coming to Southeast Asia. We will call the subject "The Role of Women in Society." Jess and I have always known that we are very fortunate to have been born in the United States where women enjoy a relatively high level of respect and equality while also taking advantage of the opportunities presented to us. My gratitude for this situation has increased dramatically now that I have been exposed to the ways in which other societies treat women often as possessions less valuable than cattle. In all of Southeast Asia, a young, attractive, giggling woman with her fat, bumbling, western "boyfriend" is a common sight -- it is a sad truth that many women's greatest chance of a stable life for themselves and their future children is to marry a guy from Europe or the US with a little money and less worldly experience. This behavior was rather disturbing at first, but after several of our Laura-Jess mandatory theorizing and speculating sessions, I think I get it and do not criticize it. In social settings, many women our age rely on the generosity of the men around them to fund their lifestyles as they do not have the means to provide for themselves as education and opportunities are not as abundant as they are for their male counterparts.
Many of the working women we have met are some real hustlers. In my opinion they work harder than the men (many of whom pass their days by sleeping in some of the most creative, contortionist-like positions on top of their motorbikes -- not hard work, but entertaining nonetheless) and while doing so are expending a ton of energy simutaneously charming, insulting, and bargaining with us and our fellow shoppers. Yet women are still often treated as second class citizens who are meant to be quiet and submissive despite the fact that they seemingly keep their families together by acting as both nurturer and provider. In other words, I would also try to take the nerdy software engineer from Denmark for everything he was worth too. More importantly though, I am extremely grateful that that is not my reality and will hopefully never take for granted the opportunities that have been given to us and that we continually create for ourselves.
Ok, so BEFORE we came to laos, faithful readers may recall that we were in cambodia, trying NOT to fall off motorbikes. cambodia turned out to be one of the most fabulous countries I have ever had the privilege to experience. our time in cambodia was way too short, but largely dominated by the visiting of a very special area of the country -- the temples at Angkor. more than a year ago, when this trip was still just a dream, katy jane was visiting me in the dregs of january finals in boston. we were both studying hard, and spent our free time envisioning this trip. eventually, we decided we needed a map, and after trucking through the snow to the cvs to purchase said map, we hung it up on the wall of my dorm room and immediately started marking places we wanted to see. sitting in my dorm room, staring at the sme posters I had been staring at since leaving california for boarding school, watching the snow pummel the window, i tried to think of the most exotic thing i could possibly imagine ... and the temples of angkor popped into my mind, and hence that was the very first place I marked on the map. So, you must try to imagine how I felt 16 months later when I found myself actually staring at a gargantuan, ornately carved, ancient building in the middle of the jungle. Did I mention that monkeys were crawling all over it, and elepahnts were also involved? Awe, is really what I was feeling. Awe at the ancient people who actually built it. Awe at the cambodian man who led us around from temple to temple, not noticing the sweat running down his face because DUH its always hot here. Awe at us girls, who actually got out ourselves around the world when we said we would.
Of course, I cannot talk about Cambodia without mentioning the horror I sometimes felt regarding the tragic history. Let me refresh your memory. This is the country where Pol Pot and his political party the Khmer Rouge took power, and decided to turn back the hands of time to year one. Intellectuals were the first to be murdered. Then the cities were emptied, everyone was forced into an agrarian lifestyle, and liberties were taken away. Then things really got nasty. As mistrust started to circulate among higher ranking members of the regime, more and more Cambodian were slaughtered for no reason. And really, it is hard to see a reason. Everyone we ask has a different theory, but no one gives us a straight answer. One thing everyone knows, 1/4 of the entire population of Cambodia was completly wiped out. Gone. Imagine what it would be like if 1/4 the population of the USA just disappeared. I bet you can't imagine it. Neither my father, Laura, nor myself can. We spent an afternoon at the Killing Fields, which is the name of a movie on this subject that everyone should see, and also the name given to all the mass grave sites where bodies were left to decay. I had a particularly devastating moment when, while following a tour guide around, I watched him stoop down and pick up a human tooth from the ground, and lament that hevy rain always brings up fresh remains. I then realized that all the debris around me was not trash, but clothing and human bones sticking out of the ground. I lost it.
Here is the really frusturating bit. Hitler and the Nazis were killing on a similar scale, and everyone can rattle off the dates of WWII, and name major concentration camps. Yet, before coming to Cambodia, if someone had asked me what the Khmer Rouge was, I would have said they were some bad people somewhere in Asia doing some bad stuff in the 80s. How has this incident been forgotten? Moreover, why has no one been brought to justice? Many leaders of the Khmer Rouge are still around, and the Cambodians are trying to get a trial started, but the details of the trial are as sketchy as details regarding the Pol Pot's reasons for wiping out a quarter of the Cambodian population. Everything is murky and confused. You can assume that everyone you see on the street in Cambodia over the age of 50 has some strong memories of the Khmer Rouge regime, and I dont know how they would be able to continue on with their normal lives without a sense of closure. As I see it, there are two possibilities to explain why no one seems to want to acknowledge the absolute devastation that hit the country a mere 20ish years ago. These people are being left out of history because 1. it is too painful to write about or 2. no one cares. Both are terrifying options.
I am trying to figure out a way to end my part of this post in a less depressing way, but I just realized that I would be doing the same thing many of the people in Cambodia seem to do, simply ignore the horrific facts, or maybe make excuses for them. So, out of respect to all the men, women and children who were murdered, I am going to end just like this.
This from datty:
Cant communicate with these peaceful Lao people . . . it's put us in a couple tough spots:
All I wanted was a simple whole fish for dinner - grilled. 6 days later, we had suffered every sort of filthy, raw, fish-mess, and I had given up. But the girls made it their mission to sit me down with a whole fish, and suddenly tonight - there it was. Live, fresh, cooked to order with nice spices. The girls are like that - effective, tenacious, loving. Time flashes by with them. Great baguettes here, by the way. Since early 70's wanted to know where the Mekong Delta really is, all those body bags. Now I know. Miss my wife. Augi
This sappy introduction makes for an okay segue into a topic that has been coming up more and more in conversation since coming to Southeast Asia. We will call the subject "The Role of Women in Society." Jess and I have always known that we are very fortunate to have been born in the United States where women enjoy a relatively high level of respect and equality while also taking advantage of the opportunities presented to us. My gratitude for this situation has increased dramatically now that I have been exposed to the ways in which other societies treat women often as possessions less valuable than cattle. In all of Southeast Asia, a young, attractive, giggling woman with her fat, bumbling, western "boyfriend" is a common sight -- it is a sad truth that many women's greatest chance of a stable life for themselves and their future children is to marry a guy from Europe or the US with a little money and less worldly experience. This behavior was rather disturbing at first, but after several of our Laura-Jess mandatory theorizing and speculating sessions, I think I get it and do not criticize it. In social settings, many women our age rely on the generosity of the men around them to fund their lifestyles as they do not have the means to provide for themselves as education and opportunities are not as abundant as they are for their male counterparts.
Many of the working women we have met are some real hustlers. In my opinion they work harder than the men (many of whom pass their days by sleeping in some of the most creative, contortionist-like positions on top of their motorbikes -- not hard work, but entertaining nonetheless) and while doing so are expending a ton of energy simutaneously charming, insulting, and bargaining with us and our fellow shoppers. Yet women are still often treated as second class citizens who are meant to be quiet and submissive despite the fact that they seemingly keep their families together by acting as both nurturer and provider. In other words, I would also try to take the nerdy software engineer from Denmark for everything he was worth too. More importantly though, I am extremely grateful that that is not my reality and will hopefully never take for granted the opportunities that have been given to us and that we continually create for ourselves.
Ok, so BEFORE we came to laos, faithful readers may recall that we were in cambodia, trying NOT to fall off motorbikes. cambodia turned out to be one of the most fabulous countries I have ever had the privilege to experience. our time in cambodia was way too short, but largely dominated by the visiting of a very special area of the country -- the temples at Angkor. more than a year ago, when this trip was still just a dream, katy jane was visiting me in the dregs of january finals in boston. we were both studying hard, and spent our free time envisioning this trip. eventually, we decided we needed a map, and after trucking through the snow to the cvs to purchase said map, we hung it up on the wall of my dorm room and immediately started marking places we wanted to see. sitting in my dorm room, staring at the sme posters I had been staring at since leaving california for boarding school, watching the snow pummel the window, i tried to think of the most exotic thing i could possibly imagine ... and the temples of angkor popped into my mind, and hence that was the very first place I marked on the map. So, you must try to imagine how I felt 16 months later when I found myself actually staring at a gargantuan, ornately carved, ancient building in the middle of the jungle. Did I mention that monkeys were crawling all over it, and elepahnts were also involved? Awe, is really what I was feeling. Awe at the ancient people who actually built it. Awe at the cambodian man who led us around from temple to temple, not noticing the sweat running down his face because DUH its always hot here. Awe at us girls, who actually got out ourselves around the world when we said we would.
Of course, I cannot talk about Cambodia without mentioning the horror I sometimes felt regarding the tragic history. Let me refresh your memory. This is the country where Pol Pot and his political party the Khmer Rouge took power, and decided to turn back the hands of time to year one. Intellectuals were the first to be murdered. Then the cities were emptied, everyone was forced into an agrarian lifestyle, and liberties were taken away. Then things really got nasty. As mistrust started to circulate among higher ranking members of the regime, more and more Cambodian were slaughtered for no reason. And really, it is hard to see a reason. Everyone we ask has a different theory, but no one gives us a straight answer. One thing everyone knows, 1/4 of the entire population of Cambodia was completly wiped out. Gone. Imagine what it would be like if 1/4 the population of the USA just disappeared. I bet you can't imagine it. Neither my father, Laura, nor myself can. We spent an afternoon at the Killing Fields, which is the name of a movie on this subject that everyone should see, and also the name given to all the mass grave sites where bodies were left to decay. I had a particularly devastating moment when, while following a tour guide around, I watched him stoop down and pick up a human tooth from the ground, and lament that hevy rain always brings up fresh remains. I then realized that all the debris around me was not trash, but clothing and human bones sticking out of the ground. I lost it.
Here is the really frusturating bit. Hitler and the Nazis were killing on a similar scale, and everyone can rattle off the dates of WWII, and name major concentration camps. Yet, before coming to Cambodia, if someone had asked me what the Khmer Rouge was, I would have said they were some bad people somewhere in Asia doing some bad stuff in the 80s. How has this incident been forgotten? Moreover, why has no one been brought to justice? Many leaders of the Khmer Rouge are still around, and the Cambodians are trying to get a trial started, but the details of the trial are as sketchy as details regarding the Pol Pot's reasons for wiping out a quarter of the Cambodian population. Everything is murky and confused. You can assume that everyone you see on the street in Cambodia over the age of 50 has some strong memories of the Khmer Rouge regime, and I dont know how they would be able to continue on with their normal lives without a sense of closure. As I see it, there are two possibilities to explain why no one seems to want to acknowledge the absolute devastation that hit the country a mere 20ish years ago. These people are being left out of history because 1. it is too painful to write about or 2. no one cares. Both are terrifying options.
I am trying to figure out a way to end my part of this post in a less depressing way, but I just realized that I would be doing the same thing many of the people in Cambodia seem to do, simply ignore the horrific facts, or maybe make excuses for them. So, out of respect to all the men, women and children who were murdered, I am going to end just like this.
This from datty:
Cant communicate with these peaceful Lao people . . . it's put us in a couple tough spots:
All I wanted was a simple whole fish for dinner - grilled. 6 days later, we had suffered every sort of filthy, raw, fish-mess, and I had given up. But the girls made it their mission to sit me down with a whole fish, and suddenly tonight - there it was. Live, fresh, cooked to order with nice spices. The girls are like that - effective, tenacious, loving. Time flashes by with them. Great baguettes here, by the way. Since early 70's wanted to know where the Mekong Delta really is, all those body bags. Now I know. Miss my wife. Augi
Monday, May 11, 2009
bought me a ticket back on plane to spain by katy jane
hi hi hi! it has been some time, and i am still in israel, but as of 130 this afternoon, i am officially headed to barcelona. in two days! i am so so so excited to go back to spain (i was there 10 or so years ago) now that my spanish and travel skills are much better. i really haven't seen that much of europe, so i hope to run around and see as much as a can, even if it is just to get a wee taste of some places and whet my appetite for return. i leave israel on the 14th, which marks the 7th month of travel for the girls and i. also the last time i put up a blog post, but no matter! so much has happened in the last month. i have been in the north and the south of israel, i floated again in the dead sea, my cousin joined the navy and got a giant gun, i swam in the sea of galilee, the red sea, and the mediteranean. i spent some time in egypt, traveled with two really cool kids i met through couch surfing, read a new james bond book and ww2 thriller, got a tattoo (just kidding, mom!), spent some more time in jerusalem, went to the west bank, saw an awesome movie, went to my aunties clothing design studio, sat in on my uncles photo shoot for a movie poster, climbed two mountains, talked to tons and tons of israelis about the conflict and gained new perspective and formed new opinions, bought a damn ticket to spain, and have decided that it is time to think about heading back to the states. WOW!
oh, that list is big and full! most recently, in the last two days, i have seen my cousin sworn into the navy at a lively ceremony (with lots of singing) and returned from a few days in egypt. the induction ceremony, of course, made me cry, but i have come to realize that the military experience here is so different than that in the states. it is a different beast altogether and in some way, more humane than what i'm used to at home. before the swearing in, i spent several days in egypt with an awesome swiss girl aline who has come to israel to discover her jerish heritage. egypt is super unusual, very different from israel, and indeed very different from any placei have ever been EVER. i can't compare it to any place that i have been so far on the trip (hear that, fox? a comparison is JUST impossible). we traveled around the sinai penninsula, staying the first night in a hoosha (palm leaf hut) right right right on the beach. we drank tea, and played backgammon, and read books, and snorkeled. it was a slice of heaven. after that, we went south to dahab, and from there inland to st. catherines monestary and mt. sinai. public transportation is limited in the sinai, and busses sometimes just dont run. there is also little in the way of a bus stop, and more of waiting on the side of the road/at a check point until a bus comes along. sometimes this doesn't happen, and sometimes you have to take an expensive cab, and sometimes you find really nice hungarian tourists with rental cars that are going the same place as you. then, you are like me and aline, the luckiest girls in the world. we hiked up mount sinai at 2 am, in order to see the sunrise over the desert. this, not a slice of heaven. cold and hard and FULL of other tourists and camels and camel drivers. and dark. because the sun isn't up. but good at the end when you haven't sprained you ankle, died from exposure, or caught camel flu, then the sun comes up and you hike down for a hot shower and a free breakfast.
i took another trip, this time staying in israel proper (well mostly... we had a little diversion to the west bank) with an american guy called thayer. immediatley upon leaving the house here, we saved a baby kitten (so small its eyes weren't open and it couldnt really walk) that was somehow lost in the middle of a busy street; this act of good samaritanism granted us luck for the remainder of the trip. we rented a car, drove north to the sea of galilee, camped and swam, went to some hot springs and then on to the dead sea. we camped here too and tried to get up before sunrise to hike up to masada, but didnt quite make it. we did get the top though. it was good to drive around the country, as you really get a differnet perspctive than on a bus. also, there is more control over the music and let me just say, thayer whipped up some awesome cds. we made a side trip into jericho, a city in the west bank, which was really interesting.i stil cant figure out what exaclty is going on here, but the west bank is not actually part of israel, but palestine. we had to cross a border and immediately the difference was evident. the road was in bad shape, the street lights didnt work, and jericho, which is a fairly famous town, looked like a country village. nothing was in english and it looked like no part of israel i have been too. the juxtapozition of arab life and israeli life is striking, and makes me want to know exactly what is going on.
before this little trip, it was life as usual. lots of family time, good cooking, gardening, bbq's, and getting to know tel aviv. it is an awesome city, with really beautiful neighborhoods, fabulous beaches, and safe safe safe. it is an easy city to walk around and scenic. my time here has been so so so busy. and good. i think i have been here exaclty the perfect amount of time and am excited to move on, but am glad to have spent every second that i have here. israeli culture is unique in the world. sometimes, i can't get my head around it. the thing the affects daily life first and formost is the conflict, the war, the army, the constant threat of terrorism. tension here is palpable ALL THE TIME. but even so, folks dont walk around scared all the time. aprehensive, yes, on their guard, perhaps. day to day life is very pleasant here - the climate is great, the food is fresh and delicious, there are holidays all the time, and the people are really friendly and outgoing. also, public transportation is good. that said, there is a constant drought, everything closes down from friday at sundown to saturday at sundown, and people are not afraid to give you a peice of their mid, even if it is not pleasant or solicited. paradoxical place, this holy land. i don't think i could ever live here, but now i undsertand why people do. the whole mentality here is different, and i know i could never really relate, but, oh, it is refreshing sometimes. i suppose that when security more or less always hangs in the balance that one is forced to take full advantage of the good times. life is lived full tilt here, no doubt.
i dont know what else to say about life here. i have been trying to get a full grasp for 6 weeks, thinking and talking and going to museums and reading history. it hasn't always been easy, but i think that my unsease is indicative of the state of affairs. so it goes. i guess to conclude this thought - extremsism in ANY form is terrible. from hasidic jews to fundamentalist christains to suicide bombers to neo conservatives to violent anarchists to staunch racists... no matter left or right, if a person is to an exteme and unwilling to compromise, there will be a problem. i guess it is our responsibility, all of ours, as thoughtful folks with good values and relavant opinions, to be vocal against those we think are damaging civil and human rights, society as a whole, or the environment.
so in three days, i leave israel and go to spain. i have learned the most here of any place i have been on the trip yet. i am excited to run around europe for a little bit and in truth, am even thinking about heading home. the end is near! but that is for another post and another day. for now, i say shalom to israel and hola to espana.
i hope everyone is well and i love love love you all and miss you!
hugs and kisses, katy jane
ps pictures to follow!
oh, that list is big and full! most recently, in the last two days, i have seen my cousin sworn into the navy at a lively ceremony (with lots of singing) and returned from a few days in egypt. the induction ceremony, of course, made me cry, but i have come to realize that the military experience here is so different than that in the states. it is a different beast altogether and in some way, more humane than what i'm used to at home. before the swearing in, i spent several days in egypt with an awesome swiss girl aline who has come to israel to discover her jerish heritage. egypt is super unusual, very different from israel, and indeed very different from any placei have ever been EVER. i can't compare it to any place that i have been so far on the trip (hear that, fox? a comparison is JUST impossible). we traveled around the sinai penninsula, staying the first night in a hoosha (palm leaf hut) right right right on the beach. we drank tea, and played backgammon, and read books, and snorkeled. it was a slice of heaven. after that, we went south to dahab, and from there inland to st. catherines monestary and mt. sinai. public transportation is limited in the sinai, and busses sometimes just dont run. there is also little in the way of a bus stop, and more of waiting on the side of the road/at a check point until a bus comes along. sometimes this doesn't happen, and sometimes you have to take an expensive cab, and sometimes you find really nice hungarian tourists with rental cars that are going the same place as you. then, you are like me and aline, the luckiest girls in the world. we hiked up mount sinai at 2 am, in order to see the sunrise over the desert. this, not a slice of heaven. cold and hard and FULL of other tourists and camels and camel drivers. and dark. because the sun isn't up. but good at the end when you haven't sprained you ankle, died from exposure, or caught camel flu, then the sun comes up and you hike down for a hot shower and a free breakfast.
i took another trip, this time staying in israel proper (well mostly... we had a little diversion to the west bank) with an american guy called thayer. immediatley upon leaving the house here, we saved a baby kitten (so small its eyes weren't open and it couldnt really walk) that was somehow lost in the middle of a busy street; this act of good samaritanism granted us luck for the remainder of the trip. we rented a car, drove north to the sea of galilee, camped and swam, went to some hot springs and then on to the dead sea. we camped here too and tried to get up before sunrise to hike up to masada, but didnt quite make it. we did get the top though. it was good to drive around the country, as you really get a differnet perspctive than on a bus. also, there is more control over the music and let me just say, thayer whipped up some awesome cds. we made a side trip into jericho, a city in the west bank, which was really interesting.i stil cant figure out what exaclty is going on here, but the west bank is not actually part of israel, but palestine. we had to cross a border and immediately the difference was evident. the road was in bad shape, the street lights didnt work, and jericho, which is a fairly famous town, looked like a country village. nothing was in english and it looked like no part of israel i have been too. the juxtapozition of arab life and israeli life is striking, and makes me want to know exactly what is going on.
before this little trip, it was life as usual. lots of family time, good cooking, gardening, bbq's, and getting to know tel aviv. it is an awesome city, with really beautiful neighborhoods, fabulous beaches, and safe safe safe. it is an easy city to walk around and scenic. my time here has been so so so busy. and good. i think i have been here exaclty the perfect amount of time and am excited to move on, but am glad to have spent every second that i have here. israeli culture is unique in the world. sometimes, i can't get my head around it. the thing the affects daily life first and formost is the conflict, the war, the army, the constant threat of terrorism. tension here is palpable ALL THE TIME. but even so, folks dont walk around scared all the time. aprehensive, yes, on their guard, perhaps. day to day life is very pleasant here - the climate is great, the food is fresh and delicious, there are holidays all the time, and the people are really friendly and outgoing. also, public transportation is good. that said, there is a constant drought, everything closes down from friday at sundown to saturday at sundown, and people are not afraid to give you a peice of their mid, even if it is not pleasant or solicited. paradoxical place, this holy land. i don't think i could ever live here, but now i undsertand why people do. the whole mentality here is different, and i know i could never really relate, but, oh, it is refreshing sometimes. i suppose that when security more or less always hangs in the balance that one is forced to take full advantage of the good times. life is lived full tilt here, no doubt.
i dont know what else to say about life here. i have been trying to get a full grasp for 6 weeks, thinking and talking and going to museums and reading history. it hasn't always been easy, but i think that my unsease is indicative of the state of affairs. so it goes. i guess to conclude this thought - extremsism in ANY form is terrible. from hasidic jews to fundamentalist christains to suicide bombers to neo conservatives to violent anarchists to staunch racists... no matter left or right, if a person is to an exteme and unwilling to compromise, there will be a problem. i guess it is our responsibility, all of ours, as thoughtful folks with good values and relavant opinions, to be vocal against those we think are damaging civil and human rights, society as a whole, or the environment.
so in three days, i leave israel and go to spain. i have learned the most here of any place i have been on the trip yet. i am excited to run around europe for a little bit and in truth, am even thinking about heading home. the end is near! but that is for another post and another day. for now, i say shalom to israel and hola to espana.
i hope everyone is well and i love love love you all and miss you!
hugs and kisses, katy jane
ps pictures to follow!
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